A painting of Hanoi: the lakeside road busy with motorbikes and buses, the old town's rooftops beyond
June 2026 · Three days with my mum

Hà Nội

From Behind

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01Part one

From Behind

9:41
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I didn't realise how many videos my mum had taken of me until I looked through her phone after our trip to Hanoi.

There I was, walking down a narrow street.

Then again, following someone into a coffee workshop.

In another video, I was standing at a hotel reception, checking us in.

Nothing particularly interesting was happening in any of them.

And yet, she'd filmed it all.

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Most of the videos were taken from behind.

Sometimes she would add her own little commentary, almost as if she were making a travel vlog.

“Off we go to make some coffee!”

Or, in another video, while I was walking ahead with our local guide:

“My daughter's brought me here to learn about Vietnamese history today. Shame I can't understand a word! Good thing she's here to translate for me.”

I laughed when I heard that.

But the more I watched, the more I found myself thinking about those three days differently.

My mum and me standing on the train tracks of a narrow Hanoi street
Mum and me, Hanoi
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‹ Notes⋯

Hanoi with Mum

June
  • Planning our itinerary
  • Booking activities
  • Finding our way around
  • Talking to people along the way

It was our first trip abroad together, just the two of us.

We went during a three-day holiday in June. My mum doesn't speak English, so I'd taken care of pretty much everything — planning our itinerary, booking activities, finding our way around, and talking to people along the way.

It felt strangely new to be the one in charge.

9:41
Hà Nội
9:41
Your location
Vietnamese coffee workshop
6 min (450 m)
Fastest route · Old Quarter
▲ StartSteps
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Growing up, I was always the one following her.

She knew where we were going, what we needed, and what to do when something unexpected happened. I never had to think much about any of it.

Now, in a city neither of us knew particularly well, I was the one checking Google Maps, finding the right streets, and doing all the talking.

Whenever someone asked us a question, my mum would turn to me.

It was a funny little reversal. For once, she was the one relying on me to navigate an unfamiliar world.

And I quite liked it.

I liked being able to take care of the things she would normally have to worry about. I liked showing her around, explaining things, and knowing that she could just enjoy herself.

What I hadn't noticed was how much she'd been watching me do all of it.

Hanoi's pavements can be narrow and crowded, often taken up by parked motorbikes and little street-side shops. We couldn't always walk side by side, so I usually went ahead, with my mum following a few steps behind.

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Your location
Cooking class
9 min (650 m)
Fastest route
▲ StartSteps
MeI was busy watching where we were going.
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MumShe was busy filming me.
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When I travel with friends, we usually take photos of each other when there's something worth photographing. A beautiful view, a nice café, a famous landmark. We'd stop, take a few pictures, and carry on.

But my mum didn't seem to need a reason.

She filmed me walking. Talking. Checking in at the hotel. Following a guide down the street.

Things I wouldn't have thought to photograph, let alone keep.

There was something so sweet, and a little funny, about discovering all of this afterwards. I'd spent those three days looking ahead, thinking about where to take her next. Meanwhile, she'd been following along, quietly collecting these little moments of me.

And somehow, in her videos, even the most ordinary things seemed worth remembering.

02Part two

Something New

Our table at the coffee workshop, set with filters and cups
My mum smiling at the coffee workshop
My mum laughing in a café covered in coffee posters

Of course, there was plenty else to remember about Hanoi.

One of my favourite things about travelling with my mum was discovering just how willing she was to try something new.

She's always been more of a tea person, but when I booked us into a Vietnamese coffee workshop, she was completely up for it.

We spent part of the day learning how to make coffee, following the instructions and trying things we'd never done before.

She had such a good time that afterwards, she told me she wanted to try making it herself when we got home.

I loved that.

I'd wondered whether some of the activities I'd planned might be a little unfamiliar for her, or whether she'd prefer simply sightseeing and taking photos.

But she was curious about everything.

The cooking school's kitchen, set up for our class
Bước 1We also joined a Vietnamese cooking class.
A stall of dried goods at the local market
Bước 2We visited a local market, looked around at all the fresh ingredients,
Bước 3and learned to make dishes like spring rolls and pho.
My mum and me in Vietnamese conical hats
Bước 4At one point, we put on those traditional Vietnamese conical hats, which made the whole experience even more fun.
Our finished spring rolls and noodles
Bước 5I liked watching my mum get involved, asking questions in whatever way she could,
Bước 6following along, and enjoying herself even when she didn't understand everything being said.

It made me realise that there are still so many sides of her I haven't had the chance to see.

At home, it's easy to think of your parents in the roles you've always known them in. You know their routines, their habits, what they like to eat, what they usually do.

Then you take them somewhere new, and suddenly you see them being

— just like anyone else discovering something for the first time.

I loved seeing that side of her.

Mum at the coffee workshopMum and me in conical hatsA Polaroid of us with our guide and groupMy mum smiling outside St Joseph's Cathedral
03Part three

Hanoi Itself

Hanoi itself was lively and a little chaotic, in a way that sometimes reminded me of older neighbourhoods back home in China.

Motorbikes seemed to be everywhere.

The streets were full of tiny shops, market stalls, people eating on little stools, and conversations happening right beside the road.

There was always something going on.

Me holding up a bánh mì
The little bánh mì shop from the street
My mum inside the bánh mì shop, its walls covered in stickers
Mum and me with our bánh mì
¥10each, more
or less

We ate some wonderful food, too.

One of my favourite stops was a tiny bánh mì shop that had been around for years and was mentioned in the Michelin Guide.

It didn't look like much from the outside, but there was a queue of people waiting.

Naturally, we joined it.

The baguettes were wonderfully crisp, filled with all sorts of savoury things, and cost only around ten yuan each.

I remember sitting there with my mum, eating our bánh mì, both of us very pleased with how delicious and inexpensive they were.

Nothing remarkable, really.

Just the two of us, somewhere in Hanoi, having a very good lunch.

I think that's one of the things I enjoy most about travelling. Sometimes the moments you remember aren't the ones you planned for. They're the little things that happen along the way, when you're simply enjoying being somewhere together.

04Part four

Three Days

Tháng Sáu
123
Day 1

Three days went by quickly.

There was so much more we could have seen and done. But when I think back on that trip, I don't really wish we'd squeezed in another attraction or two.

What stays with me is the feeling of being there with my mum.

Mum and me at the airport, about to say goodbye
The airport, about to go our separate ways
Mum in front of the cathedral, the square busy with people
Walking through busy streets.
A Polaroid of us with our guide and the group
Trying to explain something a guide had just said.
Mum at the coffee workshop
Watching her learn to make coffee.
Sharing bánh mì
Sharing a baguette.
Laughing in our conical hats
Laughing over something small.

And, of course, those videos.

I keep thinking about how differently we must have experienced the same three days.

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MeFor me, there was always something to think about.
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MumFor her, there was all of that too, I'm sure. But there was also her daughter, walking a few steps ahead.

I wonder what she was thinking when she took those videos. Whether she was amused to see me confidently chatting away with strangers, or simply happy that we were getting to do these things together.

I never asked.

Maybe I should.

My mum in a conical hat, looking back over her shoulder on a Hanoi street
Mum and me on a Hanoi street
Mum and me at the airport

When I was little, I used to follow my mum everywhere. I probably never gave much thought to how often she'd look back to check that I was still there.

Now that I'm older, I can finally walk ahead and show her the way.

And there she is, still watching me.

I went to Hanoi thinking I'd be the one showing my mum a little more of the world.

I came home with a collection of videos that let me see something else.

What the world looks like when I'm the one she's looking at.